I grab my board from my locker and a bar of wax from my shelf. My locker is a surfer’s heaven, filled with boards, swimsuits, and high quality wax. The fiberglass surface of my board looks luminous in the beautiful summer sun. The salty ocean water smell drifts through the air. I jog through the underground tunnel that connects my beach club to the sandy beaches on the other side of Ocean Ave. I do not want to anywhere but here, this is my home.

I live down at the beach in Spring Lake for weeks on end. I reach the undergound trail that leads to my peace. It is like their are two dimensions, I am leaving the one filled with stress and responsibility and entering my happy place, the place where I ca find peace. The ground is slippery from the trails of water left behind from the passing of people through it. I finally reach the stairs to get back up and onto the beach. I race up the stairs, stumbling as I reach the top. Woah, these waves are insane! I thought to myself as I broke into a full sprint towards the water. “OUCH!” I moan as my feet hit the scalding grains of sand beneath my sensitive feet.

I finally reach the wet smooth area of sand that had just been washed over by an enormous wave. I drop my board and collect the bar of soap from my bathing suit pocket. I drop to the ground and smear the board with the sticky wax to help me keep my balance. I take a second and sit on my board, taking in how beautiful the water is and how lucky I am to have a house in such a great place that allows me to do what I love, surfing.

“Cole!” I hear from behind me.
The noise shocks me out of my trance.
“Hey Drew!” I yell.
He stops next to me and drops his board on the ground.
“The waves look sick today dude,” he said eagerly.
“Yeah I can’t wait to get out there and start shredding” I respond.
“Do you mind if I borrow some of your wax I couldn’t find mine,” Drew asked.
“No problem,” I answer.

We pick up our boards and head into the water. It was a warm sunny day in the middle of August, so we just dove in, not worrying about the temperature. It was nice and refreshing, just cold enough to cool you down from running around shortly before. I see the huge waves that stand in front of me, the last obstacle standing in my way, to reach my place of tranquility.

We raced to get on our boards and we paddled out with intensity to ensure that we did not get crushed under the heavy waves. A huge wave comes at us and we are both thrown off of our boards. I fight under the water against the wave and I finally break free of its containment and reach the surface. I see Drew already sitting up on his board laughing.

“Dude it’s not funny stop,” I said gasping for breath.
“Sorry I couldn’t help myself,” he said breaking into another serious of laughs.

We begin to paddle out again and after having a couple more close calls we finally make it to the break zone. I sit up on my board and just relax, the sun shining down on me and not a thing to worry about other than catching some fun rides.

“This really is fun isn’t it Drew,” I announce.
“Yeah this really is a good time, It’s gonna stink when we have to go back to school,” he responded.
“I know, I’m gonna miss Spring Lake a lot.”

I begin to think about how I will be returning to my life of hardships and pressure I carry around. When I am at the beach, surfing in the ocean, it is as if the water washes the pressure off my back and clears my head of all stress and responsibilty.

“Party wave!” We yell in unison.

We jog up to the boardwalk together, legs cramping up.

“Cya tommorow Drew,” I say.

“Cya Cole I can’t wait to do this all over again tomorrow,” he responds

“Ya me too, it will be a fun August,” I answer.

I walk back down and I reach the portal, that will transfer me back to the world I live in. But my home in the real world will never be as true or important to me as my life at the beach. Because as a wise man once said, “Here, I belong.”