I was gliding along the light blue waters, trying to leave the shore. I was on a cold, wax covered surfboard. The board was covered with foreign words and odd, yet interesting designs of various wildlife's. As I was nearing the point where i could no longer stand, I turned around to face the shore and wait for the next wave.
Out of nowhere, there was a slightly forceful tug on my board and the water level descended to my waist. This was a sure sign of a wave. This wave was different though. The water dropped further than usual, and the tug on my board had more force to it. This wave was going to be huge.
I pulled myself out of the water and up onto my board then laid chest down. I started to paddle as fast as I humanly could and kicked the water as hard as I could. I started to get lifted higher and higher on the wave. I heard my instructor screaming,"WOOO! You have to stand up!" followed by a smirk.
I panic stricken said,"Wait, what?" as I could not hear him over the water.
The board became a little sluggish and I realized that what my instructor was saying was to stand up. To do so I had to push myself up and pull my feet from the back of the board to the middle.
Maybe it was just a second, a tiny moment that passed by when I blinked my eyes. the next moment I was rocketing across the water's surface. For those few seconds, I felt like the ocean belonged to me. I had the wind whipping past my body and the salty water spraying up from the front of my board. When I got to shore my instructor said that it was one of the largest waves he'd seen in a long time. He then proceeded to give me a pat on the back.