I stand, nervously questioning what I am about to do. In theory it seems simple—just stand on a board in the water. But in practice, it is anything but.

The ocean sprays in my face as I stand on the board. For a moment, invincibility washes over me. But a sudden loss of balance and a mouthful of water cut that moment short. And I fall.

Now humbled, I try again. I wait for the board to level, and then stand up. This time, I stay on the board longer, having corrected my balance. I try to pop the board up into the air, but my ego catches up with me. And I fall.

Another attempt goes by, and then another. Each run brings me closer to succeeding, but I grow impatient. I lose focus. And I fall.

I think to myself, one last try. That’s all I need.
Steadying my nerves, I mount the board and pop to my feet. I correct my posture. I visualize the trick. I…rise.