soft sand rests under my feet
while the hot sun tans the skin on my back
staring out at the ocean
mesmerizes me into a state of mind I have never felt
I snap back to reality
the australian accent in my ear
in my mind
teaching me the ways of the water and the board
ways the waves crash near shore
ways to know when to stand up and take it in
I walk out into the clear blue water
the temperature sending chills up my spine
I hear the cries and laughter of friends
the bitter salty taste of the water in my mouth
the aroma of the ocean wafting into my nose and mind
I walk my board out further away from the soft sand
I feel the string rays mingle around my toes
the water is cold
I see a wave coming
bigger than any I have seen all day
I hope onto my red board
there is the accent in my ear again
‘Go’!
I stand up
riding the wave with a smile
a smile that takes over me
I giggle at the pleasure
I feel free
I feel powerful
I feel like I am part of the sea
all my fears are gone
the worries I had about this large expanse of water
I was one with the wave
I was one with my board
nothing could stop me
I was gone
still taking that wave in all the way to shore
I hear the accent
cheering me on
my first time
my first wave I was up and gone
I was proud of myself
I had a feeling like I have never had my whole life
I reach the shore and hop of my big red board
jabbing my hand in the air cheering to myself
I grab my board and run out deeper and deeper
I see the kids around
some riding the waves
some falling
I am out of the waves
on my stomach I paddle
I paddle
I paddle and paddle
I turn around to see a wave and a seal approaching me
I’m up again
and gone
gone back to shore
gone back to the feel of the ground beneath me
gone back to my favorite day of summer
my favorite new thing
my favorite new memory
was the first day
I ever surfed